Exeter Inn

Encountering a few centuries of (mostly) friendly ghosts
Ghosts are found anywhere, not just where some tragedy happened or where they died. A presence can linger where that person had some emotional tie, maybe a tragic incident, yes, but more often something of great importance, or where they were particularly happy. And  the majority of supernatural presences are not hostile or evil. Most are perfectly friendly, with some as unaware of us as most of us are of them.

Our village pub here in Chittlehamholt, North Devon, hosts several such residents. 

Built in the 1500s, The Exeter Inn became a coaching inn during the late 1600-early 1700s, and was the first ‘comfort break’ and place to change horses en-route from the trade ports of Barnstaple and Bideford to Exeter, thirty or so miles away, or to other connections to London, Bristol or Bath, possibly via South Molton. There seems to have been a collection of ‘Exeter Inn’ public houses in our area, varying from thirteen to nine miles apart – usual distances for a coach and horses, depending on the difficulty of the terrain. I presume these same-named inns were conveniently placed along the regular route. 

The food is delicious, quiz nights are great fun and landlords Steve and Hazel (and all the staff) are most friendly and welcoming- and that includes most of the ghosts1

REGULAR RESIDENTS - AND A FEW OCCASIONAL ONES
Full details are in the book Ghost Encounters 
- but you'll find more updates here

The Tudor Newly-Weds

Pre-mid-1600s travel would have been by foot, horseback or carrier cart, with only the wealthy or tradespeople having their own transport. A Tudor couple arrived at our village inn with their own coach, some time during, we think, the age of Queen Elizabeth I. Kathy has fleetingly seen them several times, identifying the era they belong to by their costume – typical Elizabethan, wealthy garments. They appear to be newly married. She seems quite shy and is dripping with pearls and sparkling jewels. We think they have stopped to rest the horses. Barnstaple is about thirteen miles away, with some steep hills in between.

But where were they heading? Who were they? Sadly there is no way of discovering more about them, their names, their future fate. All must be conjecture, and maybe a story for a fiction writer to decide?
Frustrating, but the one thing ghosts can’t do is leave us a explanatory note!





EXCERPTS FROM THE BOOK

Seated to the far right of the main bar, beside what is now a very pleasant conservatory, are a group of ladies gathered around a table. From their dress they belong to the 1950s, and this seems to be a regular way that they meet for a light drink and a heavy gossip. It was not until 1982 that women had the legal right to buy themselves a drink at the bar of an English pub. Many pubs would not permit unaccompanied women into the main bar area, instead, they were allotted a separate lounge bar, or a ‘snug’. These six ladies at The Exeter Inn all wear hats and are smartly dressed, with the matriarch of the group an older woman who reminded Kathy of the character Nora Batty in BBC TV’s comedy series, Last of the Summer Wine. The lady is giving the impression of superiority by smoking a cigarette, using a long, black cigarette holder.

They are a garrulous group, talking about a young man from the village, agreeing that, “He won’t make much of himself,” and exchanging uncomplimentary opinions about him.

 One of the group is younger, recently married. Kathy had the impression that she had been dragged along either by her mother or mother-in-law. She stands out, not because of her younger age, but she is dressed in brighter, more fashionable post-war clothes – a pale pink summer dress and a chic hat. She is also giving an air of feeling decidedly awkward among these patronising older gossips. She tries several excuses to leave, but is over-ruled, in particular by the woman who is dominating the group. Kathy sensed that the young lady would not remain in the village for long, that she would move away with her husband to somewhere less parochial.

 It was later that the name ‘Eliza’ came into Kathy’s mind, for the dominant woman, and interestingly, Kathy hasn’t seen the woman since. However, she has encountered one of the other ladies of the group at a different location – standing at the window of one of the village farmhouses. We have tracked her down as Mrs Ellis, distinctive because she wore a patch over one eye.

*

Children often see spirits, and we grown-ups tend to put their chattered experiences down to imaginary friends. One quiet afternoon at The Exeter Inn, the child of a member of staff was happily playing where the smithy was once located. Mum could hear the child laughing and talking. When asked to explain who else had been there, the child replied, “The girl.” Needless to say, there had been no present-day girl. Perhaps we ought to take note of what children tell us more often?

Kathy has encountered fleeting glimpses of other customers: an agitated young man pacing up and down, holding forth with his own importance. She says, “I didn’t like him much, he was self-opinionated and fond of his own voice.” She has only seen him the once, and cannot remember what clothes he wore, although he was from a past century.

There is a group of Edwardian farmers sitting drinking ale at one of the tables in the corner of the main bar, opposite the fireplace. They are dressed in work clothes, farmers’ apparel. One man, the main spokesman of the group, is emphasising his point by gesticulating with his pipe – Kathy could smell the tobacco smoke. Standing beside the table is a more elegantly dressed man, maybe a local squire? Tall, dark-haired, with a neatly trimmed beard, a cravat, smart coat, knee-length breeches, long leather boots and holding a riding crop.

The men are vigorously debating the matter of ownership of fields, and establishing the correct boundaries. Even today, unmarked hereditary boundaries can be a sore point between farmers and incomers. The impression was that the ‘squire’ wanted to purchase some extra land from the pipe-smoking farmer who was having none of it, as he knew the field was in a strategically important position, making it financially valuable.

Another grumpy 1960s man was sitting at the present bar, but made it quite plain that he did not want to participate in any paranormal speculation and promptly disappeared..

The lower dining area behind the huge chimney breast and log burner, had once been a lean-to with a sloping thatched roof covering what was the smithy. The forge and anvil are where the fireplace is now situated, and on many occasions Kathy has noticed the distinct aroma of shoeing a horse.

The blacksmith was an important person at a coaching inn, and this young chap appeared to be good at his job, but preferred to keep himself to himself. In the revealed scene, he is busy shoeing a farm horse, more interested in what he is doing than taking notice of a group of young village ladies standing to one side, chattering and giggling. One of the group, a blonde, is over-dressed in her finery, attempting to gain his attention.

He, however, is desperate to have a private moment in order to speak to a young lady standing apart from the others, but he is too shy to initiate a conversation. She is pretty, with brown hair and hazel eyes, more plainly and suitably attired in a brown dress with a white chemise. She also wants to speak to the smith, and eventually plucks up courage to talk to him – about the horse.

*

A present-day lady sat by herself at a table to enjoy Sunday lunch. Sitting next to this lady was a short, stout, Gentleman Farmer with a distinctive bulbous nose and florid face. He wore a wing-collared shirt beneath his jacket and had placed his hat behind his chair. He was tucking into a roast dinner with as much gusto as the 21st-century lady next to him.

The Star of the Pub: Meet Nancy

There is one regular visitor to mention, and we’re hoping she will be pleased with her star spotlight. Nancy, as we believe she is called, is usually around at The Exeter Inn, although she does not always show herself. Nancy is aged about eleven or twelve, is often up to mischief or enjoying listening to our modern conversations. Occasionally, if no one is noticing her presence, she ruffles wall hangings, or moves chairs. On one occasion during Sunday lunch, landlord Steve was asked by a customer about a particular picture on the wall. Kathy could see Nancy earwigging nearby, and when the customer left, watched as Nancy climbed onto a stool to study the picture for herself.

Nancy was the first spirit Kathy saw soon after Steve and Hazel took the inn over. That first encounter, Nancy was kneeling at a window anxiously looking out for someone, whether in her own time or ours we have no way of knowing. She has loose brown hair down to her shoulders, and wears a plain frock, with a white pinafore. It is not easy to pinpoint Nancy’s period, for this was common children’s attire from Georgian to Edwardian times.

For some many months Nancy was not seen at all and we wondered if she had moved on. One evening Kathy and I gave a talk about the ghosts of the pub to a packed audience, Kathy speaking about the ghosts, me filling in the history. In mid-flow Kathy stopped, nodded, smiled and said, “Yes, I’ll be with you in a moment.”

I wondered who she was talking to. We finished the section then Kathy explained.

“I have a rather irate young lady standing in front of me, she is frowning and has her hands on her hips, disgruntled because I haven’t mentioned her yet. Ladies and gentleman, I have the honour of introducing you all to Nancy!”

Smiling now, Nancy turned and waved.

If a picture inexplicably becomes aslant or a glass falls over even though no one is nearby, smile and say hello. It will be Nancy trying to get your attention.


THE ENGLISH CIVIL WAR

There is a group of English Civil War King’s Cavalry troopers. We think from their injuries, appearance and agitation that they are in the process of fleeing from the aftermath of the 1646 disaster which happened at  Torrington only a few miles away. This was to be the final skirmish during the Civil War in Devon and the West Country, and it led to the final battle and ending of the war. Prisoners were held in the church crypt, no one, apparently, aware that there was also about 80 kegs of gunpowder... The bang when the gunpowder accidentally exploded must have echoed along the river valleys for miles! 

I also wrote a short story about these  visitors (who have also been seen at the King's Nympton pub The Grove) in FATE: Tales of History Mystery and Magic


MORE PUB VISITORS

not mentioned in the book as they were picked up after it was published by an experienced medium, Vara and her daughter, Rowena, on 11th-12th May 2025.

ANIMALS

  • A 'Dulux' dog (long-haired Old English Sheepdog) is by the fire with a white and black cat - the cat is rather bullying the dog!
  • A litter of labrador-type puppies. One is older than the others - from a previous litter maybe?
  • A bat, flying out from the kitchen area
  • A blue and red parrot is behind the bar
  • A fluffy tabby sits on the bar glaring at present-day Frankie (the present-day pub dog)
Visitors and Staff
(some of these seen only fleetingly)

  • There is a stable boy, who came from the workhouse - found a job at the pub.
  • Eliza - the elderly woman. Often grumpy. She waited, unmarried, for her 'chap' to come home from the war (WWI presumably) but he came back married someone else. Eliza had a hard-life. Rarely spoke unless spoken to. Explains why she was grouchy come the 1950s. 
  • 13-14 year-old girl, 'useless maid' but learning fast (could this be Nancy, seen often by Kathy?)
  • The cavaliers are very dishevelled. They left their severely wounded behind [at Torrington?] after the church blew up.
  • 1950s - Dior dress? Upper-class ladies, group of friends?
  • Workers came in with farmers for a 1/2 pint.
  • Traders come in with a  collie dog and a well-dressed man. The landlady (cook?) is not impressed. A lot of tutting.
  • There was a murder in the village, the victim was not found for a while.
  • 1800s. People by the bar are watching something.
  • Tudor lady. Newly married, heading towards Exeter to join main coach road.
  • Bess, landlady (?) famous for her mutton stew.
  • Gypsies were not allowed in the pub. Woman (staff? Landlady?) giving birth. Gypsy midwife called - she wouldn't enter to help until the 'no gypsies' sign was removed.
  • Nancy is playing with a ball, which is knocking things over. 
  • Mid-60s near where the forge was: man - chest pains. Heart attack (Vara came over quite faint) A doctor was called. The man survived.
  • Well-off Tudor man (the same man as in the married couple?)
  • someone is annoyed at the words 'no tinkers' on a notice board
  • There was a male 'bedroom' and a female 'bedroom upstairs (gained via a ladder)

MORE IN THE VILLAGE

The gypsy midwife was summoned to one of the wealthier farms outside the village. The labour was desperate and she ran all the way from the village (over 1 mile). Vara watched her running, skirts raised, her bag banging against her side. She got there in time and saved the woman and the child
As a thank you the landowner granted the gypsies the right to camp on his land.

Frankie

  • During another visit for a meal, Frankie  was playing with something on the settee by the fire. She was told off for making too much noise. Kathy pointed out that she was, in fact, playing with the pub cat which had only recently died.
  • The ghosts have their own quiz team for quiz nights. They get a bit disgruntled if too many of the questions are too 'modern' - science and geography especially. They prefer history, local knowledge and pub-related questions. 

More about the ghosts of our village pub – or North Devon in general in Ghost Encounters: the Lingering Spirits of North Devon. 

https://mybook.to/GhostEncounters

© Helen Hollick


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